Fixed Departure for Nepal Expeditions
05 April 2017
Everest (8,848m) The first highest peak in the world.
The Mount Everest is the highest peak of the World 29028ft. (8848m.) through which the climbing toppers feel them selves as the most proud and adventurous personnel of the World. Sir Edmond Hillary and Late Tenzing Norge Sherpa first climbed this peak in May 29, 1953 , after their long time's effort.
Everest Base camp is situated on the north of Khumbu glacier at high of 18000ft. All the international Mt. Everest climbers assemble here during the starting and at the ending time of there climbing. Normally the climbing duration of this expedition lasts for 90 days. All the climbers who mass there at the base camp seem really busy with excitement for the preparation of their expedition to reach on the summit.
Some climbers climb this mountain on their own risk without any climbing Sherpa guide; and some climbers go with their own climbing Sherpa guide. Most of the teams carry own their on Internet, Satellite phone, Medical Doctor and rest of the modern requirement.
After the Base camp, we have to cross crevasses, Seracs and ice block. Similarly we should face to the way up having Chunks of ice as large as our houses where we should used fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to climb ahead camp 1 st 6400m.
Camp 1: 20000ft. (6,400m)
This camp 1 is situated at the flat area of endless snow deep crevasses and mountain walls. Because of the Sun's reflection from this place we get warm and heating ambience at this place. In the night we listen the deep murmuring cracking sounds of crevasses beneath our tent. These are the areas where we have to walk to reach camp 2.
Camp 2. 21000ft. (6,750m)
This camp 2 is situated at the height of the 21000ft, which is located at the foot of the icy mount Lhotse wall though where we have to go ahead. Weather is here is good but bad clouds roll in from the low range of the Himalayan valleys to the bottom of our camp two. But wind here some times seems very violent enough to destroy our tents. After climbing these palaces we reach camp 3.
Camp 3. 22300ft. (7,100m)
Camp 3 is located at the height of 22300ft, adjoining to mount Lhotse wall. After climbing the 4000ft. Lhotse wall by using fixed rope and with prior acclimatization it leads us to camp 4. Also on the way we have to ascend the steep allow bands (lose, down -slopping and rotten limestone). From their crossing short snowfield the route moves ahead up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. (Another wells name meaning Saddle of pass). Oxygen should probably be use above base camp 3 incase of needed to the climbers.
Camp 4. 26000ft. (8,400m)
Now we are on camp 4 which located at theheight of 26000ft; it is the last camp of the Expedition. From here summit is about 500m, distance far. This is the final and dangerous part of the climbing. This place is besieged by ferocious and violent winds. The normal best way to reach the summit is via the narrow South - East Ridge and it precedes the South Summits 28710ft.
From here the way is easy to reach at the summit of the Everest 29028ft; and late Sir Edmond Hillary and l Tenzing Norge Sherpa used this route in 1953.
Mt. Dhaulagiri 2016/2017
Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m.) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit " Dhavala means" means "White" and girl is "Mountain" The mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873, but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949.
The French mount Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri . A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later.
After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass
As French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col., The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.
Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it finally ended up in the cooking pot.
International Shishapangma 8012m. Expedition Spring 2017
12 April 2017
Shishapangma 8012m. the 14th Highest Peak in the world
Shishapangm is one of the very lovely mountain of China, which lies in the autonomous region called the Tibet of China, only a very few people in the world had idea about the Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers iloven 1978. The Tibetans regard it as the very holy mountain. It is the youngest mountain among the peaks situated above the height of 8000m, and there are only fourteen mountains above in the 8000m high Himalayan ranges. Till to date many climbers have succeeded to approach on its apex.
The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.
Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.
Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, is found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment, he reaches on the top of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col.
Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 1991 the present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m.
After this at this, point you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this you should take a couple of day’s rest there. After that climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu & Kanchnjunga are seen. Then you get a good look of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri.
From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, a very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen.
After reaching the summits, on your way back you can choose the different route to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city of Tibet. And this new route may give you another enthusiastic and charming feeing inside you.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day’s climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, is found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
For online booking you should deposit us USD 500.00 bank transfer in our bank account in advance which enables you for your secured seats. After this deposition, your expedition will be final confirmed; and in case if you cancel the expedition, the deposition will not be refunded. This is the terms and conditions of our company.