Description

Mt. Baruntse Expedition (7,129m)

Mt. Baruntse lies in the heart of Khumbu Region on the lap of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu. This mountain is becoming famous like Mt. Pumori, Ama Dablam and Mt. Everest for expedition in this region. Baruntse is another attractive Mountain for climbing due to its location, classical symmetrical beauty and relatively accessible to climbers across wide range of skills. It is the most accessible 7000-meter peak in the region besides having a normal route of ascent. World famous summiteers Edmond Hillary and Jim McFarland were also the first summiteers of Mt. Baruntse. Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow ascended Baruntse firstly on 30 May 1954.

The south -East Ridge of Baruntse is a bit difficult because of being straightforward hard ways to climb. In the Expedition of Mt. Baruntse there are hard sections of 50 Degree's elevation with a prominent ice cliff for climbing and facing the risk of avalanche. The climbers have succeeded the mountain mostly in the spring season because of being the best season to the climber for safety. However, some climbers have reached on the top of this mountain in the autumn season too.

Expedition of Baruntse is an experience sense of being in a remote area without investing considerable amount of time and efforts. There are two ways of getting to the peak from Lukla via Mera La Pass and Hunku glacier with a possibility of climbing Mera peak as a part of adventure and from Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and West Barun glacier. Second option offers also a crossover and walk out via Mera La pass to Lukla, a full spectrum adventure.

The ascent route for Baruntse Expedition is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass; this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Ship Ton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7000 meter’s Peak.

Trip Facts

Itinerary

TRIP FACT

Elevation: 7,129m (23,389ft)

Location: Nepal/Khumbu Region

Coordinates: 27°53′00″ N 86°59′00″ E

First Ascent: Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, May 30, 1954

Climbing Season:Late spring and autumn

Expedition duration:32 days (typically)

Climbing duration:9 days (typically)

Group Size: 02-15 person per Group

Baruntse Climbing Base Camp Services:

• Friendship World Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the Baruntse Base Camp and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a high quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize Baruntse summit opportunity.
• We offer wide range of service from Base Camp logistics to fully guided climbs with individual climbing Sherpas helping their clients to achieve a summit.
• High elevation climbing requires not only a set of climbing skills and the fitness level but also the ability to cope with high elevation conditions affecting on ability to function to the extent possible at sea level, where most of climbers are living.  
• Our philosophy is to support climbers by the skill and high altitude genetic ability of Climbing Sherpa, born and grew up at higher elevation as did his predecessors.
• Baruntse as all other 7000m peaks require set-up of 2-3 high camps, where the gear, food and fuel has to be carried. No matter how physically strong and fit one is at the sea level. At high level, your physical efficiency drops considerably and the team of Climbing Sherpas pooled from all clients will set-up the route and allow you to summit.
• Having personal Climbing Sherpa eliminates arbitrage of the ‘Leader’ to decide who will get limited climbing support on the summit day. In the emergency situation the classic expedition Leader has responsibility for a number of people including themselves with impaired physical abilities due to high altitude, while Climbing Sherpa has only responsibility for his own client and with high physical abilities at high elevation due to natural genetic predisposition and all in cooperation of other expedition Climbing Sherpas. Our Climbing Sherpas are highly trained and experienced climbers doing high elevation climbs in Nepal and Tibet season after season.
• We believe that our philosophy of an expedition with the Base camp Leader-Coordinator and the team of Climbing Sherpas assigned to individual climbers is by far the most efficient and safest way to achieve high elevation summit.
• Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
• We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients. We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
• We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
• Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advice and support with them. They also know personally most of other Climbing Sherpas and network together in the Base camp regardless of the operator they work for.
• For full board clients, who would be less experienced climbers or single climbers requiring a climbing friend, we provide personal tent and food at high camps with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals.
• We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety.
• We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route. Our Climbing Sherpas will network, cooperate and work with other clients Climbing Sherpas on the route to ensure safety of his client as well as overall expedition team.
• After arriving to the Base camp (5300m) we will take a day or so of acclimatizing rest and preparations including snow practice so that we all develop common understandings and refresh our basic climbing and rescue techniques. We develop our climbing protocol. Our climb protocol will follow principles of standard high elevation and acclimatization and building higher camps progressively.
• The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located on the Hunku glacier at the foot of the mountain on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be filtered or purified by iodine tablets, or boiling.
• We will first climb to Camp 1 located at 6100m along the Hunku glacier to the 150m long steep gully leading to West Col. We will set-up fixed rope bee line to the Col, climb to Camp 1 and return to Base camp for overnight rest. As a next step, we climb up to camp 1, set it up and stay there overnight. We will explore route to camp-2, and return to the base Camp for another rest day.
• We move from the Base Camp directly to camp-2 (6400m), setup the camp and stay there overnight. There will be an opportunity for summit attempt for members who feel strong. We return to Base camp for couple of rest days to rest and recover followed by another summit attempt. Our program allows 9 days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength. It gives us plenty of opportunities to carry supplies to camp 1 and 2 and few opportunities of summit push.
• We will follow a standard approach from Lukla to Mera peak via Zatrawala Pass and picturesque Hinku valley, where we undergo acclimatization at Tangnag and Khare. From Mera La pass, we will have an option to climb easy Mera Peak via Mera glacier for acclimatization and warm-up to Baruntse.
• From Mera la Pass, we down climb to Hunku glacier valley and follow it to Baruntse Base camp at the base of Baruntse below the West Col with one overnight camp at Seto Pokhari.
• The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000m. We will setup fixed line there.
• The ridge geometry and position makes it prone to accumulation of cornices. Despite the cornices appearing very stable, we safeguard the steeper sections by fixed lines in places where we have to traverse between the camps. The avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain appears to be low. The most successful ascents are made in the spring when good snow conditions prevail. This is also objectively the safest time on the mountain.
• We establish the Base Camp at 5300m (17,400ft) in a broad open valley next to a beautiful lake on the lateral moraine of the Hunku glacier near the base of the mountain.
• To reach camp 1 (6100m) located on the West Col on the edge of Upper Barun glacier, we cross Hunku glacier to a steep gully leading directly toward. The 150m steep and 50deg climb to the West Col from the glacier there will be fixed ropes to provide a beeline to camp-1 for safe carrying of the loads required for the climb.     
• Camp 2 (6400m) is located on the edge of the Upper Barun glacier at the start of Southeast Ridge. From camp 1at West Col we begin a long glacier ascent on low angled glacial slope; we may to use a fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses.
• From camp-2 we climb-up is a short steep of 75 degrees ice wall to a small Col at 6500m. Next section to 6700m is 45deg snow shoulder after which we reach a sharp summit ridge of Baruntse, which we follow to the wide summit cone leading to Mitru summit at 7129m.The view from the summit is just incredible, truly stunning views of Lhotse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.

General Itinerary:

Day 01:Arrival and Transfer
This day is your arrival date. We welcome and receive you in Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu and transfer you to the Hotel for overnight accommodation as booked. (1300M)

Day 02:Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region
This day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation and last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. You will be kept in get set position.

Day 03:Kathmandu-Lukla Scenic Flight and Acclimatization
Today you fly to Lukla from Kathmandu at early morning, take breakfast in Lukla and day rest for acclimatization where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 04-06:Lukla to Chutanga Trek
On day 04 you trek (4hrs) from Lukla to Chutanga (3050m) and take rest for two days acclimatization where you get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 07:Chutanga to Khartitang Trek
This day you trek 6hrs from Chutanga to Khartitang (3900m); after 2 days of acclimatization at 3900m you are ready to cross Zatrawa La Pass (4610m) and down climb to Khartitang at 3900m. You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 08:Khartitang to Kothe Trek 
From Khartitang you start Trek about 4hrs to Kothe (4095m) from where you are entering now at Hinku Valley. You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 09:Kothe to Tangnang Trek 
Today you trek (4hrs) from Kothe to Tangnang (4350m). You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 10:Rest and acclimatization 
Today at Tangnang you will rest for acclimatization. You need this rest day to allow our bodies to recover and settle at the elevation before we can sleep at 5000m in Khare for the next day. You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 11:Tang Nang to Khare Trek
Only 3 hrs treks will be made on this day to reach Khare from Tangnang at the elevation of 5,045m. You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 12:Rest and acclimatization 
This is also the day for acclimatization at Khare for preparation and get ready to approach Mera La Pass 5350m on the next day. We provide you overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 13:Khare to Mera La Pas Trek
After acclimatization in Khare today you trek 4hrs to Mera La Pass (5350m) where we provide tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 14:Mera La Pass to Seto Pokhari Trek
From Mera La Pass you trek about 6 hrs to Seto Pokhari Camp (4850m) where we provide tented camp accommodation in full board basis.

Day 15:Seto Pokhari Camp to Baruntse Base Camp
You trek 4hrs from   Seto Pokhari Camp to Baruntse Base Camp (5,3000m) on this day where we establish the Base Camp for Baruntse Expedition for whole climbing period.

Day 16-24:Baruntse Summit Climbing Period 
These days are the major climbing days for you to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Baruntse. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the higher camps to be closer to the summit of (7,129m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. You are allowed to trek from lower camp to higher camp or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish for your success to reach in the summit. Here you get full board service with tented camp accommodation in both camps.

Day 25:Cleaning the Base Camp and Preparation for Return 
After a successful summit of Mt. Baruntse (hopefully), today after breakfast you all start to clean the base camp and make preparation for returning and trek down to Seto Pokhari. We provide overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis. 

Day 26:Seto Pokhari to Mera La Pass Trek
Descending and ascending you will trek 6 hrs this day from Seto Pokhari to Mera La pass (5350m). We provide overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis. 

Day 27:Mera La Pass to Tangnang Trek
On your 27th day you will be walked dawn from Mera La Pass toward Tangnang (4356m) where we settle the tented camp for your accommodation and full board meal

Day 28:Tangnang to Kothe Trek 
Today after 4 hrs trek you will reach to Kothe (4095m) from Tangnang and settled in tented camp accommodation. 

Day 29:Kothe to Thuli Kharka Trek 
This you trek about 6hrs from Kothe to Thuli Kharka and set a camp for overnight camping.

Day 30: Thuli Kharka to Lukla Trek 
This is your last day for trek of Mt. Baruntse Expedition about 7hrs from Thuli Kharka to Lukla via Zatrwa La pass with stunning Lukla Valley view from the pass where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.   

Day 31:Fly Back to Kathmandu
Today you fly from Lukla to Kathmandu same about 35 minute and we transfer to your booked Hotel with BB Plan accommodation. This day we take you for sightseeing in and around Kathmandu (Hanumandhoka Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath) and Farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant.

Day 32:Transfer for Final Departure 
This is the day that we are really missing you. We transfer you to the airport or any port for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

• The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements.
• The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.

Baruntse Expedition Autumn Itinerary

Oct 01/Day 01:Arrival in kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel (1350m).

Oct 02/Day 02:Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing

Oct 03/Day 03:Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m.)This takes about 35minutes and then Trek to Chutanga (3050m.) it takes about four hours.

Oct 04/Day 04:Trek from Chutanga to Khartitang(3900m) via Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) It takes about six hours.

Oct 05/Day 05:Trek from Khartitang to Kothe (4095m.) which takes about four hours.

Oct 06/Day 06:Trek from Kothe to Tangnang (4356m.) (Sabal Tsho-Lake) following Hinku Valley (4600m.).

Oct 07/Day 07:Rest day at Thangnang for acclimatization.This will be a rest day to let your bodies recover from the past days of hiking. You will relax and soak up the beautiful views of peaks and glaciers surrounding the head of the Hinku Valley and you may visit Sabal Tsho Lake.

Oct 08/Day 08:Trek from Tangnang to Khare(5045m)which takes about five hours.

Oct 09/Day 09:Rest day at Khare for acclimatization.

Oct 10/Day 10:Trek from Khare to Mera La (Pass) (5350m.) which takes about six hours and you camp here.

Oct 11/Day 11:Trek from Mera La (Pass) to Seto Pokhari Camp(4850m) which takes about six hours you camp here.

Oct 12/Day 12:Trek from Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp and prepare Base Camp

Oct 13/Day 13-26:Climbing period (baruntse summit period 7129m)

Oct 27/Day 27:Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) Trek to Seto Pokhari(4850m) which takes about six hour you may camp here.

Oct 28/Day 28:Trek from Seto Pokhari to to Mera La (5350m).which takes about six hours you may camp here.

Oct 29/Day 29:Trek from Mera La to Thangnang(4356m)which takes about six hours.

Oct 30/Day 30:Trek from Thangnang to Kothe(4095m), which takes about four hours.

Oct 31/Day 31:Trek from Kothe to Khartitang(3900m) which takes about six hours.

Nov 01/Day 32:Trek from Khartitang to Chutanga(3050m) which takes approximately five hours.

Nov 02/Day 33:Trek from Chutanga to Lukla(2800m) and it takes about four hours. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with our staff.

Nov 03/Day 34:Early in the morning fly from Lukla to Kathmandu, which takes about 35 minutes, transfer to hotel and Leisure day and shopping in Kathmandu.

Nov 04/Day 35:Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

Nov 05/Day 36:Final Departure or alternatively Join other activities.

Includes / Excludes